Modifications and Upgrades

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Generator to Alternator Conversion

I gave this its own page, since it is very long with many pictures. Shows converting the car from a Generator to the later alternator using all stock FoMoCo Parts.
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Mechanical Brakelight Switch

This shows converting from the stock pressure switch for the brakelights to a mechanical switch. The pressure switch has the problems of it being prone to failure, not working if the brakes lose pressure and being flaky if the brake pressure is not right. Mine in particular had the problem of coming on randomly when the car was parked, changing the switch didn't solve it so I went with the mechanical switch. The mechanical switch mounts in the pedal arm and is easy to wire into the stock harness.

Supplies:

This shows the stock pressure switch (note I've converted to a '67 Mustang dual-resivour Master Cylinder, however the pressure switch still is the same style)

Just below where the wiring for the switch leaves the wiring harness is a rubber plug covering a hole in the firewall. I cut a slit in the grommet, fed the wires throught the hole and re-installed the grommet around them.

Wiring fed through hole, with extension attached. Normally yuou would use two male bullet connectors at eh ends of the extension wires to fit into the stock connectors. My stock connections were badly corroded however so I cut them on and used butt connectors.

The switch mounts in place of the rubber bumper on the brake pedal arm. There are two nuts with the switch, one goes on either side of the brake arm to postion the switch properly. You want it so that it reliably goes off whn you release the brake pedal and comes on with less and 1/2" of pedal travel. Use the two female spade connectors to conect the wires to the switch. Make sure you ahve enough slack in the wiring to allow for the full travel of the brake pedal.

Another shot of completed conversion.

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Three-Row Mustang 6-cyl Radiator

The 3-row radiator for the '65 Mustang is an easy way to upgrade your cooling system. It is exactly like the stock Comet 2-row radiator in every way except that it is about aq 1/2" thicker. This puts it dangerously close to the fan in the stock location. The easy solution is to move it back into the radiator support.

From this distance the modification looks stock.

,p>Where the silver bolt heads are is where the radiator flange normally sits. Instead I have made a cut at the top of where the radiator support bows out and slid the flange down inside the support. You'll need to make this cut on both sides, and another smaller cut at the bottoms to get it to drop in and line up. the cuts ahve to be a bit wider than the thickness of the flange to accomidate where the flange has some stiffening bends.
,p>My original mounting clips & bolts were in sad shape, so I used all new nuts & bolts. If you feed them from the engine side forward you don't ahve to worry about them interfereing with anything in the engine compartment. (those hoses are for an external transmission cooler)
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Mustang Parts Interchange

One of the hardest things about rebuilding a Comet is that because they weren't as popular it can be hard to get some of the small perts for them. Fortunately they share some parts with the very popular Ford Mustang, which there are lots of suppliers for. These are parts I know interchange onto my '62 Comet and should fit other '60-'63 Comets. I've found guys selling these as comet-specific on ebay for as much as twice what the mustang vendors charge, so yu can get it much cheaper if you know these interchange. If anyone has any other items they would like to add to the list, contact me and I'll add them. (note: these ae not parts for sale, but most can be aquired through Mustangs Unlimited, whom I've always had good luck with)



www.blert.net/comet/